Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city is little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its soul: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their children are reluctant to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these tales and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
